Bye for now!

Well, that's it for this year, but if anyone's interested, I keep my Facebook page up to date between trips. It can be found at IndianaRowz.

Thanks for reading and I hope to return next February!

February 29th - homeward bound and an overview

It was a really early start this morning. Up at 5.30am, breakfast at 6am and airport pick up at 6.45am. Mando from Jolleys was waiting outside the hotel entrance with a mini bus. Even though he wasn't accompanying us to the airport, he had bothered to come and meet us to ensure all was OK. I've been really impressed by his attention to detail and will certainly be using his services next year. 

On the drive to Luxor airport we noticed a flurry of activity. Roads being swept, police everywhere and all in their smarter uniforms. We realised a VIP was due soon. The driver told us that it was the wife of President Sisi. 

We arrived at departures and went through stage one of the security. This is as soon as you enter the building. We went to the check in desks, there was only a short queue.  As we reached the front there was just a couple of people at the desk. Then the computer system went down so that no luggage labels could be printed!  It took about twenty minutes for it to be sorted, then we move on to stage two. 

We had been given departure forms, so there was the mad dash to find somewhere to complete them, forgetting there is an area around the corner! Then we finally went through and up the stairs to departures. 

There are quite a few shops and a large cafe and eating area. The only problem with the duty free shops is that all the goods are priced in US$. If you buy anything with cash then the conversion rate is rubbish. It's not too bad if you use a credit card though. Suffice to say, I went home empty handed!

Stage two security came next, before we moved to the gate lounge. This was even more demanding and thorough. Once through we walked down to the waiting area, but they weren't ready for us. Two security men were carrying a bench to the wrong gate lounge! It took the passengers to tell them the correct one. At this point all electronic items had to be removed from hand luggage and be examined. This took some time, and then the lounge gradually filled with passengers. 

The plane was due to leave at 08.55am. At 08.35am the wheelchair passengers were moved to the front. Everyone else stood up, waiting for boarding. After ten minutes we were all told to sit down. The airport was in lockdown due to the arrival of the President's wife! 

We eventually boarded our plane at 09.25am, after a bus transfer which passed her private jet, next to the VIP lounge. 

The flight was unremarkable, except for the absolutely awful meal. There hauls have been a choice of chicken or beef but most people got given beef. This was a tough as old boots and the bread roll WA just short of being frozen. This has to be the worst meal I've ever had on a plane. 

The IFE is just a drop down screen for every six rows and very poor for a 5-6 hour flight. I was lucky, as I had downloaded films to my iPad mini, my lifeline! In fact, it was this that made my flight seem quite quick, as I watched two excellent films. 

We actually arrived at Heathrow exactly on time. We would have arrived even earlier but we were stacked and had to land at the set time. 

It was a long walk to the baggage reclaim, about 15minites, but most ch of this is on moving walkways so it wasn't too bad. By the time we arrived at the baggage carousel I could see that my case had just appeared so I got it immediately. My companions came soon after so we were well on time for our next flight. 

We had to get from terminal 2 to terminal 5. This involved lifts down to the Heathrow Express for a quick and free journey between the terminals. We went straight to the BA check in to see if we could get on an early flight but it was too tight.  We checked in our luggage, went through the automatic secturity barriers and into the main security area. 

My goodness, what a performance! There were so many people that we realised that we would never have made an earlier flight!

There were different rules depending which person you had. My companion didn't have to remove small devices from their hand luggage for scanning but I did. I was surprised by the lack of consistency. 

We finally ended up in the departure lounge, where we settled ourselves down for a couple of hours before our gate would be announced. I could not believe just how many people there where, everywhere! Finding a seat was a challenge but we managed it. I was so tired I couldn't even bother to walk around the shops. 

Our flight was called and we boarded on time, although we took off late. The BA plane seemed to be very new and was an A319. It was very pleasant, with LED lighting, and very comfortable seats. It was an excellent flight which was over very quickly and so we landed at Manchester, home. 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My overview of the trip

As usual, I thoroughly enjoyed my trip, travelling around Egypt

What I loved:

The hotels- the Winter Palace Pavillon in Luxor. The location was far better than being at the Sonesta St George. It was so easy to get everywhere from here, especially to the ferry. 

The hotel itself although nic, has become very tired. The Accor group really need to smarten it up as it has a long established reputation to maintain the facade of the palace is flaking off and does not give a good impression. It's talked shabby grandeur a little too far!

My room was lovely, with a king size bed, a fridge and a large TV. However, for a hotel of this standard it should be providing tea and coffee making facilities. Also, it was funny to see the use of ping pong balls as door stops!

The food was generally good. We really just had breakfast each day, eating out at night. However, the egg chef really needs teaching how to make scrambled eggs. I was stunned to see him pour a CUP of milk into a small pan, add a portion of butter from those little containers, then lightly whip two eggs with a fork and throw them in. This resulted in a soggy mess of unmixed eggs, with a clear distinction between cooked white and cooked yolk! Once on the plate they quickly went to liquid. Awful!

Having said this, everything else was just fine. The evening meal was a buffet for 200LE and it wasn't bad when we were too tired to bother going out. It was expensive for what it was but it was convenient. 

The Old Cataract Hotel, Aswan. 

This was truly lovely! It was SO expensive, but I booked it as a special treat. I was not disappointed and only wished that I could have stayed longer. It was luxurious from beginning to end. 

Maybe I'll be able to return one day, but it will certainly remain one of my favourite hotels stays anywhere in the world. 

The New Memnon Hotel, West Bank, Luxor

Well, what a find this was! I booked it on recommendation from an archaeologist that I met on my last trip. I checked it out and it had great reviews so I took a chance and booked it for six nights. I really couldn't have made a better choice. It was clean, bright, comfortable and the owner was brilliant! He looked after us as though we were old friends. He dropped us off at local sites then, after a few hours he phoned to check all was well. 

He has big plans for the hotel and we all wish him every success as he deserves it after all his hard work. 

After we went to Cairo, he phoned to check we had got back safely, even though we weren't even his guests anymore. His devotion to customer service was outstanding. 

The Mena House Hotel, Cairo. 

I love this hotel and always stay there when I visit Cairo. The rooms are lovely and very well appointed. There is even free water, daily, in the room. It's recently been aquired by the Marriott Group and will be gradually refurbished before its relaunch. I hope they don't ruin it!

We ate at the 139 Restaurent, which is very good although the service can be slow. My only real complaint here was the lack of understanding by the reception staff. 

I had booked two rooms, a double for me and a twin for my friends. I explained this at the time of booking, both in writing and on the phone. I also explained this when we checked in, when we were given our keys. However, they still managed to get it wrong. I bought a round of drinks before going to our rooms and so charged it to the wrong room. When realised what the had done I went to reception to change it. Despite being assured that the change had been made, it had not. When we came to pay our respective bills they were both wrong and it took us over twenty minutes to explain and sort it out. During this time they reprinted the bills FOUR times! Not impressed!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Egypt

Luxor - it looks a lot cleaner than last year but that's probably because the President of China had just visited. We found the best way to get a taxi was to move away from the hotel or use the back entrance. 

The hassle also seems to be less. There were no gigolos on the Corniche asking me if I wanted and Egyptian husband, so that's a definite improvement!  There's still the annoyance that is Luxor souk. They just haven't got a clue. They doesn't seem to realise that their antics actually prevent sales, not encourage it. Next time I might dress differently as an experiment so as to look as though I live there then see how that works!

Aswan

Same applied here. Very little hassle and a lovely place to visit. This is one of my favourite places anywhere and I'd find it hard not to visit when I come to Egypt. 

Cairo

Now this is another matter altogether. It's still disgusting, with rubbish everywhere the canals leaving the city towards Saqqara are really dreadful. There's so much rubbish floating on the surface of the water it is just one complete mass. There embankments are cal so covered and it's awful to see the village people washing their clothes and themselves in the water. 

The city traffic has to be seen to be believed, it's just crazy! There don't seem to be any rules when driving, undertake or overtake, anything goes. They manoeuvre so close that you are convinced the cars will be damaged but amazingly, they don't. 

In fact, the only reason for me to visit Cairo is purely to use it as a base to get to Saqqara. Even a visit to the Khan el Khalili can't change my mind. There are jsut so many people milling around that it becomes unpleasant. 

Overall

Things seem to be improving slowly in Egypt but they have a long way to go in their attitudes before people will want to return. If stalwarts like me find it difficult, there's little hope for the ordinary visitor.  

By attitude I mean those in a position of authority. The security people in Karnak were appalling. Their rudeness was totally uncalled for an unacceptable. They were treating visitors as though they were dirt on their shoes. This must be dealt with immediately. 

The same applies to tour drivers and their expectancy of massive tips for just doing their jobs. 

Then there are the guardians at the tombs who also think they should be paid to open up the tombs. It's not fair on new visitors, who think that this is the norm. 

Having said this, I also came across such acts of kindness, like the owner of the New Memnon and the Inspector at Saqqara. The archaeologists who welcomed us on to their dig sites and gave much of their valuable time to let us see their work. The local tour operator who constantly checked that our arrangements were OK, to the hotel waiters who looked after us. 

It was a trip of vast contrasts, but the end result was a very satisfying experience that will live with us forever!

So, it's goodbye for this year and I hope you'll join me on my next trip in February 2017!

February 28th - the last day.

So, the final day has arrived. I feel as though we've been here for much longer than two weeks, but I will be glad to get home. Too much of a good thing?

We didn't leave the hotel until 10am and then made our way to the public ferry. 

1LE each got us over the Nile and we made our way to the bus station so that we got the right bus up towards the ticket office. This was a mistake. One man decided to be too smart for his own good and said the fare was 10, not 1!!!!!  Naturally we walked off and made our way up the road to pick one up further along, by the shops. 

We stopped two buses and both drivers said the same thing, 10LE, whilst laughing. The jungle drums work well over on the West Bank too it seems! Fortunately, the third one accepted the correct fare and so off we went. 

We arrived at the closed site of the Colossi, as I had an arrangement to see the Director, Hourig Sourouzian. 

As we walked towards the entrance I suddenly saw a man walking towards me, arms outstretched in greeting. He was accompanied by the site inspector, who I also knew. I then recognised the man, he was the driver when I used to visit Luxor with an Egyptology group. We had a brief chat but I had to keep my appointment, which was now delayed, as the inspector was then nowhere to be seen. 

We waited for a few minutes and the inspector returned, accompanied by Dr Sourouzian. We greeted each other and had a discussion about the work ongoing at the site. They are making the ground works for future years when the public will have access to the site. 

So much great work is being done here that it's a pleasure to support such a worthwhile project. 

From here we walked back up to Caravanserai, the lovely shop with all the items priced and no hassle, only tea! I bought a beautiful, hand made! Beaded shawl and a glass bead lamp cover. There are good views of Medinat Habu along this road, ones I haven't seen before. 

And the Theban Hills. 

We saw this little donkey by the roadside, hobbled so that he couldn't run off. He did seem well cared for and on our way back someone had been and given him some greenery. 

I did my shopping and then we walked back down to the junction to get another bus back to the ferry. We took our last trip over the Nile and then made our way to the Aboudi Coffe Bar for a much needed drink. They do a delicious fresh lemon juice for 12LE. 

After this, my friends went into the book shop and I went off to the souk to finish my shopping. I've now decided that it's far better to shop at night when there are more people, as the vendors are far ruder to s single, lone female during the day. I just went in, got what I wanted and left, so they were the ones who lost out. 

The pool area beckoned, so I spent my last afternoon lying on a sunbed and listening to my audio book. I've been really pleased with my two visits to the Winter Palace Pavillon and I'll sum everything up tomorrow. 

I won't forget this massive balcony and lovely view!

We went out early for dinner, to the Jewel in the Nile again, as we so enjoyed it last night. We ate likely, conscious of the day of travelling that awaits us tomorrow.  Satisfied, we made our way back to the hotel for an early night. 

It's been a brilliant trip, yet again. But I'll leave Amelia Edwards to sum Egypt up in a way I'm sure you'll all recognise. 

Landing from her boat at Luxor, She wrote in 1877;

"And now there is a rush of donkeys and donkey-boys, beggars, guides, and antiquity- dealers, to the shore - the children screaming for baksheesh, the dealers exhibiting strings of imitation scarabs, the donkey boys vociferating the names and praises of their beasts, all alike regarding us as their lawful prey" 

This is as true today as it was then , so times really haven't changed'

February 27th - we saw 'wonderful things'!

We had a late breakfast and were really glad to be back at the Winter Palace Pavillon. 

I'm getting really comfortable here!

We went to change some money and then check in for our Monday flight. There was no point, as they were unable to do it, so I did it later online. 

We moved away from the front of the hotel before we grabbed a taxi to Karnak. It's better to do it this way as the price goes up if they see you coming out of the hotel. As it was, it only cost 10LE to get there. 

We entered the main entrance and were shocked at the attitude of the security man. He was appalling! He shouted at each person in a very unpleasant way to put items on the X-Ray conveyer belt. I was SO angry at his very rude manner that I told him to his face that he was very rude. I reported him to someone who can do something about him. 

The Egyptian authorities really need to get control of obnoxious people like him. They are alienating the very people that they need to be polite to, so that they will not only spend money in the country but also encourage others to visit as well.  

We met with our friend and our special tour began. We were shown all of the area in front of the pylons me where there ramps and mooring area for boats had been discovered. 

Today I learned all about the vast contribution Taharka made to the rebuilding of Karnak in the 25th dynasty after it had fallen into disrepair.   

We walked through the temple aiming for another area to the north but on the way I took some photos, as the sky was SO blue!

As you can see, it was quite busy. There seemed to be lots of school trips and also Asian visitors by the coach load. 

From here we moved through a locked gate to the Temple of Montu, to the north. This is in an area which would be impossible for the public to access, as the terrain is very difficult. It was really interesting though and it's a site that really needs excavating, once there is enough money. 

We then moved on to the temple of Ptah. I visited here a few years ago, so it was interesting to see the improvements. This was it then. 

Here it is now. 

From now on I can only show you general photos, as I'm not allowed to show the 'special places' we were taken. 

The temple of Khonsu. 

We walked Karnak for three hours, none stop. There is still lots that we haven't seen yet, and I've been coming here for years!  Unfortunately, it was a REALLY hot day today and we were all very tired at the end of the visit. 

Suffice to say that there are areas in Karnak that, after restoration, have the most beautiful and vibrant colours! I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes. I would have loved to have photographed them, but unfortunately it was forbidden

It was an absolute privilege to have been allowed to see what we did. We were extremely lucky and won't ever forget what we've seen. Hopefully one day these places will be open for all to visit. As we left the temple, a convoy arrived at the main gate. The security men snapped to attention, so it must have been someone important. We obviously picked the right time to leave! 

We a managed to get a taxi to take us back to the hotel and then we went to see Mando at Jolley's to sort out the transport to the airport. It's been great being able to make all our arrangements with him, it's made life easier. 

I spent the afternoon on a sun bed by the pool, listening to an audio book. It was still very hot, so I was careful to keep beneath the umbrella. 

Later we decided to visit the souk before dinner to get some gifts for friends (you know who you are, ladies!). 

We had an exhausting time haggling with the vendors, but I have to say that Luxor souk is much improved!  The items are displayed better than in the past, the hassle is still the same though!

Luxor temple looks lovely at night too. 

It was nice to se the caleche horses looking in better condition too. 

We managed to get a taxi to take us to Jewel in the Nile, where we had a really nice meal. We enjoyed it so much that we've booked it for tomorrow, our last night in Egypt!

February 26th - Luxor beckons!

We had a leisurely breakfast, having our last look at the pyramids before returning to Luxor this afternoon. Breakfast will not be quite the same at home!

We were being collected at 10am, so we went to pay our bills. What an experience! We were in adjoining rooms and the bills had been mixed up. It took twenty minutes to sort it all out. 

Was this a sign of things to come?

I had arranged that the driver would drop us off in Old Cairo for a short time, then let us see the Citadel, before taking us to the Khan el Khalili and leaving us for a while. Once finished, we would then go to the airport. 

Well, we drove past Old Cairo, with the driver just pointing it out! I only realised he wasn't stopping when the Citadel loomed into view. I asked the driver to stop here, unsure if he actually understood me. In the end I phoned our friend to explain it to him. The driver seemed to get extremely irritated. He said he could understand us, but clearly he couldn't or he would have stuck to the original plan. 

So we stopped at the Citadel for a short time, then, when we got back in the minibus, he took us all the way back to Old Coptic Cairo. We visited the Hanging Church. It was packed with people visiting, as today is a holy day, albeit for Muslims rather than for Christians. 

From here we went to the Khan el Khalili, which was even more packed with people!

This is the tea man, selling to people, then washing the cup, before then selling more 

tea to another person. 

After a while it became unpleasant, so we ducked down some side alleys to seek out the old buildings and non tourist shops and stalls. 

Chickens!

This area was far more interesting than the main tourist area, but it was very overpowering, so we made our way back to where we had arranged to be collected. We were early, but for some reason he was already there, despite telling us he wasn't allowed to wait for us. I never figured that out.  

We were glad to get in the bus and so made our way to the airport. On arriving we thanked him and gave him a tip. Unfortunately he felt the amount wasn't sufficient and became very cross with us. I won't go into detail, but he seemed to think he had been some sort of a tour guide, which he most certainly had not been! He was threatening to call our friend to complain and this annoyed us even more. In the end, my companion gave him more money but then he tried to take the original amount as well! 

We were very unhappy with his attitude and behaviour and this rather spoilt the end of our trip to Cairo. 

This is what comes of me not organising something myself, I won't do it again! We can't wait to get back to Luxor!

We landed at Luxor airport at 6pm and what a relief! The relative peace and quiet of the Luxor roads was more than welcome! As was our arrival at the Winter Palace Pavillon. We felt felt as though we were home! 

It's only now we are back in Luxor we can really appreciate it. The litter, squalor and ramshackle buildings in Cairo have to be seen to be believed!