The boat arrived in Aswan just as I was going to bed. It was a wonderful sight to see the West Bank illuminated at night. I went to sleep, happy to be here.
I actually had a good night's sleep and woke to the sound of water lapping against the boat. A motor boat was passing and the wake was hitting our boat. I opened the curtains to see the most wonderful view, the Tombs of the Nobles directly opposite me. I will never get used to it, no matter how many times that I see it! The boat has moored up in a perfect location. No taxis needed at all, just walking where I want to go.
As there appears to be no organised trip today, breakfast was at a civilised time. Afterwards I went up on the top deck to take some photos, but I was a bit chilly, so I won't go out until later on.
Today I've decided to sail over to Elephantine Island to view the museum and the temples. I'll go back for lunch then take a felucca trip to the Old Cataract Hotel, where I will drink hibiscus juice on the terrace and watch life on the river. After that I'll walk back through the marvellous souk and hopefully get some shopping.
This is my plan, although whether it works out like that is another matter!
It didn't!
I walked along the Corniche and I have to say I was appalled by the amount of harassment there was. Every single man on the walled side of the pavement said something to me. Some became quite insulting when I kept saying no thank you. They kept saying there were no tourists, when in fact they were everywhere, there being 10+ cruise boats moored up and they were only the ones in the centre. Some moor up further north. Some of the caleche horses didn't look too good and but there was one being fed and she had her foal with her. They both looked fine.
The Corniche itself is undergoing a makeover. The plain pavement is being replaced with ornate bock stones and granite. It will look lovely when it's finished. I noticed many men employed doing this and other similar things.
I was aiming for the public ferry. Just before it I saw the most magnificent boat, the Misr (Egypt).
It's the most stunning boat and similar to the Sudan.
I went over on the ferry to Elephantine Island and up towards the museum and ticket office. When I asked for a museum ticket they said it had been closed for TEN years. I found that to be strange, as I had been there with a group on 2011 when the revolution started and we were told that it was only closed for that reason. I presumed it has been opened, as many internet sites said it was.
That being said, they then wanted money off me to see around the free temple site. I refused and just went around it. It is extremely interesting because of the mix of periods and styles. It ranges from a pre dynastic, wide, mud brick enclosure, similar to the Hierakonpolis fort and the tomb at Abydos to Ptolemaic.
I first went into the Satet Temple
And then the one below it which is blocked off. As Elephantine is small, newer temples were built on top of the older ones.
This is taken under the present ground level and dates from the 6th dynasty
This photo is of one of the blocks lying around and the following one of of the old temple of Hathor at the southern tip of the island.
I then left the temple area and walked back from here through the Nubian village. To say it was like a rabbit warren of alleys is an understatement! I lost my bearings at one point but soon navigated my way out and back to the ferry. The houses are beautifully decorated, this one reminds we of houses in Cornwall!
After scrambling about all morning I came a cropper on the ferry steps and fell onto the pavement! Honestly, can you believe it? I hobbled off to the souk and did a recce for my intended visit in the evening. I did however succumb to a bracelet I'd been looking for and some gifts!
I got back to the boat in time for lunch. Afterwards I checked my knee, a small cut which had bled well. Wound dressed, me changed and I was off out to find a fellucca. That was harder than it sounds. Some said they would do it, only to say it was too windy and to do it later. This was after I said I wanted dropping off and the Old Cataract Hotel. Suddenly, I had men shouting after me all along the Corniche about the hotel! Jungle drums!
Others wanted ridiculous prices, 250LE for an hour! I was close to giving up when I came across one I could go with and off we went.
It was lovely to be so close to the Nile. There were many boats out and at one point it was like a traffic jam.
I'm sitting on the lower terrace of the Old Cataract Hotel, having been dropped off by the felucca at the hotel jetty. Steps and more steps took me to the verandah, which is exclusively for guests.
When I arrived I went inside and tried to go to my usual spot, the upper terrace, but it was closed for refurbishment. Fortunately there are a few place to sit outside, so I was shown to the lower terrace. As you can see, the views are magnificent here.
It's very quiet and many feluccas are sailing past. It's quite windy today, so there are plenty out on the Nile. It feels so decadent, sitting here and sipping hibiscus juice.
It's a unique view of Elephantine Island from here. The temple ruins and the Nilometer are right in front of me. It's funny to think I was there this morning, taking pictures of here!
The sound of jaz, a saxophone, is wafting out from the guest verandah. The other visitors next to me are querying the bill. The can't make out the service charge of 12.5%. I think the prices for a casual drink are very reasonable, particularly when taking in to account the class of the hotel. I expected it to cost a fortune but it doesn't. I would still like to stay here one day. I think the service you receive whilst a guest would be far better than you receive as a visitor. They take far too long for everything. Also, when you get the bill, pay it and wait for your change, you find that they have rounded it up to the nearest five pounds. There are no coins given here!
It's amazing to think that Agatha Christie wrote Death on the Nile here, looking out on the same views. I've just realise that the place that I'm sitting is where, in the film, they used as the front entrance to the hotel, with a horse and carriage to carry the stars of the film away. It must have taken some doing as it's not a very wide path!
There are plenty of guests here of all nationalities. I'm amazed to see a couple sit down and being brought two shisha pipes. I've never seen a woman use one before.
It's a very relaxing place, which I need after the battle to get here!
How long will it be until I'm lucky enough to be sitting here again? Hopefully next year, but this time with my two friends who came with me last year.
The sun is dropping down behind a palm tree and it won't be long before it sets. It's getting chilly one so time to pay the bill and 'attack' the souk on the way back to the boat. There's also the small matter of packing form my road trip back to Luxor tomorrow morning.
The souk is completely different when the sun goes down. The it's busy with locals and the atmosphere is far more friendly than it was during the daylight hours. All the stalls look amazing lit up.
This time I succumbed to TWO handbags. I couldn't resist them, leather, and the two for 150LE. I managed to get through the souk not buying anything else. Goodness knows where I'm going to back these!
I've just had my last dinner on board and it was very nice. The food has been fine and overall, I'm pleased with the boat, especially what I paid.
So I'm finishing writing for tonight. Next time I do, I'll be back in Luxor.
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