Day 3 - Abydos, Seti l and Rameses ll

I was up early this morning, so no breakfast, then we left for Abydos. 

I have a new driver, Ragab, who is really good and knows all the short cuts. We travelled along the Western Desert road at high speed but he's a good driver, so no problems there. We entered Abydos from the village, so came out right next to the temple instead of in front of it. 

I wanted to see the location of the tomb of Kasekhemwy and so we drove down a back street to get there. I could see it over the top of the small sand/rubbish hills. It was immediately recognisable as it looked so like the fort at Hierakonpolis. We arrived at the German dig house to ask if I could speak to someone, but there was no one there, just a guardian. We turned around and drove back to the village, stopping so I could take a couple of photos. 

We passed the Temple of Rameses ll, which I intended to visit later. We arrived back at the ticket office when all hell broke loose. The security officers were shouting at Ragab, saying he shouldn't have driven down the road!! It was only a road, but they went nuts. I had to get my letter out (you know the one, Bliss) and this seemed to calm them somewhat but they were still annoyed. Ragab told me to go and get my ticket and he would see me in three hours. 

I entered the Temple of Seti l with a different attitude than on my previous two visits. This time I had the paper written by Dorothy Eady (Omm Seti). Although English, she was hired as a Guardian of the temple for many years and there was nothing she didn't know about it. 

I walked around, following her descriptions and explanations of the site. It was as though she was whispering in my ear, because her writing made the place come alive. All of the inscriptions she described in detail. I had learnt by my past mistakes, to use my iPad mini inside, where it was dark, and my camera for the outside. This way I hopefully will have a good record. I saw things this time that I had not noticed on past visits so I should be able to make a good PowerPoint with them. 

I left the rear of the temple for the Osirieon. Access is far better, as stone steps have been made down to the wooden staircase.  There is even a seat made in the wall for people to sit and contemplate the scene. There was very little of the pea-green water in the bottom of the Osirieon, so it was easier to take photos this time. Looking at it, it became clear that this was very much older than the temple of Sety. I even managed to get photos of the roof slabs and they show how the granite was cut to slot on top of the walls. 

I then walked across the sand to see the Rameses ll temple. As I approached I could see the top of the walls but then, to my utter amazement, in front of me were the most glorious coloured reliefs!  I couldn't wait to get inside, but took my time negotiating the sand hills down to the entrance. 

Immediately a guardian got me and latched on like a limpet. I was the only one there and couldn't shake him off. I had to just ignore him in the end, as he was stopping me concentrating. Although the temple is derelict, there still remains some carvings and painted reliefs. What was amazing was the quality of the colours. They are ten times better than those at Medinat Habu. I really cannot understand why this temple isn't publicised, as it's already included in the ticket. Visitors just don't seem to realise that it exists, as it was clear I was the first visitor for ages.

Suddenly, a man arrived with his Gloch and I knew I had another limpet. He followed me around too, but he also chatted to the guardian, so I managed to get further away from both of them for some peace and quiet.

I eventually left and of course the guardian wanted backsheesh. He hadn't done anything so he didn't get any. The Gloch man stuck with me as I walked back over the sand to the rear entrance to the Sety temple. I could have left but I wanted to find something I had missed. As we entered, the guardian was still sitting in the same place. He had just said good morning to me, nothing else and for that I was grateful. I offered him a pen and his eyes lit up with pleasure. He couldn't stop saying thank you to me!

The funny thing was that my limpet looked affronted that I had not offered him one, so I did and he even chose the colour!

I found what I'd missed, took a picture and left. I was really pleased with my visit and felt I had some good photos to sort through for the class. 

As expected Ragab was sitting at the cafe with all the men. We went to the car and he told me one of them wanted to show me what they had found. I declined and we left for the long trip back to Luxor. 

During the journey I checked my emails. Hierakonpolis had sent me one about my upcoming visit. There had been a bomb at the police station at Edfu so everyone was a bit twitchy. I was being advised not to go there to get to the site but to cross the Nile at Esna. As this is my usual route I wasn't concerned. 

We arrived back in Luxor earlier than I thought so I decided to freshen up and make a second attempt at visiting the orphanage. I got there only to find my girl was on a school trip! I decided to give Bliss's girl her presents and took photos to record it all for her. I sent them that evening. The girl was delighted and kept thanking me. Fortunately I was able to show her the photo of who had really sent the gifts, then she understood I was only the courier!!

I returned to the ferry, missing it by a jump - again! So I had to sit and freeze for twenty minutes whilst the ferry filled up again. I ate at the hotel with other guests and then went to bed.