I was woken this morning by the sound of the ceiling creaking as someone walked across the top deck. I rolled over to see what time it was but my phone was dead. I jumped out of bed thinking that I had overslept, check out is at 8am. I couldn't believe my eyes when I checked the time, 04.50!!!!
I tried to go back to sleep, but then the wailing started and I was too awake, so I pulled back the curtains for one last look at the illuminated tombs of the West Bank. As day broke, it was an amazing sight, one I couldn't even record with a camera. After that I watched the end of the film I had been watching then finished packing. I went down to breakfast as late as I could then paid my bill.
I have two hours to wait until my car comes so I'm now sitting on the top deck, writing this then reading. It's cardigan weather because although the sun is hot, there is a very cool breeze up here.
Despite its annoyances, I still love Aswan and will be back when I can.
My driver arrived one hour early, which is great. He's even got a Kia 4x4, which is a touch of luxury! As we are driving on the new east bank road and approaching the bridge, I can see that there is a cruise boat moored on the West Bank. Really strange and I can't understand why it's there. The bridge is very impressive, shame the road isn't the same.
I'm sitting in the rear of the car which I normally don't like because I like to take photos. However there would be no chance as he's got SIX fluffy dice across it.
As you can see!!!
Also, instead of the usual Muslim religious items hanging from the mirror, he's got a rosary so I suppose he must be a Copt. I'm surprised at the display, bearing in mind they usually don't advertise their religion. I expect that's why he was askd to do the trip, because this isn't his Holy Day
The villages along this route are very interesting. There are some very nice buildings mixed in with the mud brick houses. They have quite decorative patterns in contrasting brick. As the daughter of a builder I am intrigued by how they build here. Firstly they erect concrete columns that will be the only structural support. They look like modern hypostyle halls. They infill between the columns with mud brick but there is no 'tying in' to the columns so, in theory, you wouldn't have to lean on them too hard or they would pop out. Health and Safety would have a field day here and not just because one the buildings!
The one positive thing is that there is great deal of contruction of big buildings.
The railway runs parallel with the road and I've realised how much more sensible it was to return by road. I will probably be at the El Mesala Hotel by lunchtime. I've then got plenty of time to get out and about. The small village train stations remind me of an old Hornby train set, the platforms and signal boxes are identical.
The variety off scenery along the route is fascinating, from villages to green fields and palm trees to rocks and completely barren land. The men on donkeys compete with cars, motorbikes and tuc tucs for the road. I forgot to mention men on bikes, wobbling all over the place! It's interesting to note that the only time I see women is in the villages, shopping at the roadside stalls.
You can tell when you're arrived at Kom Ombo and Edfu, the masses of tuc tucs that are everywhere and causing mayhem. Just after Kom Ombo there is a sugar cane factory and the trains deliver the freshly cut cane, as well as the tractors. At one point the train line crosses the road and as the trains are very long we have a bit of a wait before we can pass. Even donkeys pullng carts overflowing with sugar cane go to the factory, with children running behind, pulling some off to chew. They must get rotten teeth!
When I think that Levison Wood walked this route I can only marvel at his tenacity in walking the entire length of the Nile. Were travelling through Muslim Brotherhood country now, indicated by the four red fingers symbol on road signs. We've been sat for five minutes waiting for a train to cross. There's no a queue of all sorts of transport including donkey carts. Everyone was getting impatient but I realised that the train was coming because suddenly the donkeys long ears went right back. They could hear it before us.
Passing though the villages, every now and then there are long pots on stands, very like the shape of Naqada pots. They are full of water for anyone passing by who is thirsty. These are some that are upside down, having just been made.
And here they are in use.
Overall, the journey took four and a half hours and I was tired when I returned to the El Mesala. I have a different room this time as, amazingly, the hotel is full! Great news for my friend Mohamed, the owner.
I had to help him with an email before I did anything else but very soon I was changed and out on a sun lounger. I realised I was falling asleep so I got dressed and went over to the Winter Palace to see my Trip Advisor friends.
The trip on the ferry was eventful, to say the least! As usual I went up on to the top deck and sat down on one of the few empty seats. Immediately I was approached by a man who started shouting 'welcome, welcome!' And then, at the top of his voice, listed all of the temples and sites I could visit. Everyone was laughing at him and the attention I was getting and then when he went up to the front of the bait and started singing with an imaginary microphone, I realised he was the local 'simple man'. It was like a floor show! Everyone was laughing and he did it even more, playing to the crowd. I had hoped to disappear quickly off the boat but he followed me along the Corniche, with even more people laughing. I escaped at the Winer Palce, much to my relief!
My friends showed me their suite, which is lovely and I couldn't resist taking a photo or two from one of their two balconies.
We then went to the Lantern for an early dinner. It's a beautifully decorated restaurant and the owner is very amenable. I really enjoyed the meal and particularly the company.
I was walked back to the ferry where we saw a very cold bride having her wedding photos taken with the temple as a backdrop and then I made my weary way back to the hotel and bed. (To write this before sleep!)
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